Photo credit: Grant McDaniel
A Slice of Sicily in Port Hood: The Rise of Pizzeria Ascente
Tucked away on a wooded lot just outside Port Hood, Nova Scotia, a modest silver and black trailer is redefining what pizza can be. Pizzeria Ascente, the creation of Christian Hicks and his wife Gerri, has quickly become a local favourite – not just for its delicious pies but for the story, values, and vision baked into every slice.
A Name with Deep Roots
Even the name carries history. “Pizzeria Ascente – as in ascend, or ascension - actually comes from my original family name on my dad’s side,” Christian explains. His great-great grandfather, Alfonso Ascente, immigrated from Sicily to Canada in the early 1900s. To secure work in Ontario and Detroit, the family name was anglicized to “Ash,” and eventually blended into Hicks through marriage. “It’s kind of a bit of bringing the family name back,” he says. “Paying homage to where we came from.”
From The Middle East to The Maritimes
The journey to launching a pizzeria on Cape Breton Island was anything but ordinary. Christian and Gerri met while working in education overseas, spending more than a decade in Abu Dhabi. Summers spent in Port Hood with Gerri’s family gradually made it harder to leave. “Not only had I fallen in love with my wife, but also with this community,” Christian recalls. They purchased a 20-acre property and, after years abroad, made the leap to return home.
While Christian left education behind, his long-standing passion for food systems, gardening, and local agriculture guided his next steps. He experimented with mushroom cultivation on their property and began taking farming courses. “I was always the kid with a garden in the backyard at 15,” he laughs. “Not very popular at the time, but I was fascinated with local food systems from the start.”
That passion for farming, combined with his Italian heritage and love for cooking, naturally evolved into the idea of a pizzeria – one that would celebrate Cape Breton’s local bounty.
A Craft Pizza Philosophy
Pizzeria Ascente opened its window on July 2, 2025, serving handcrafted pizzas from an 18-foot trailer nestled among the trees. “We call ourselves a little trailer in the trees,” Christian says. “Everything is done on a small scale. Every dough is hand-stretched, every sauce made in small batches. I know where every ingredient comes from, and I have a relationship with the farmer who grew it.”
Local sourcing is at the heart of Ascente’s menu. Christian works with about 15 different farms, from garlic grown just down the road to cheeses from Sky Glen Creamery. Even his mushrooms find their way onto the menu. One standout is the honey fennel sausage pizza, featuring locally raised pork caramelized with Cape Breton wildflower honey. Another favourite is a red onion and pistachio creation topped with a rosemary-infused olive oil base.
“What really sets us apart is that connection with food,” he reflects. “When I’m chopping garlic, I know the person who grew it. That’s not something you get at a chain restaurant.”
Turning Plans Into Pizza With CBDC
Launching any small business comes with hurdles, and for Christian, financing was among the toughest. Traditional banks were skeptical of a newcomer with no restaurant or food service background. But when he approached CBDC InRich, the experience was entirely different.
“Most banks kind of laughed at me, honestly. But Moira and Perry at CBDC InRich looked at my plan and said, this makes sense,” he recalls. “They knew I didn’t have the experience, but they saw the character and the potential. They took a chance on me, and I wouldn’t be where I am without them.”
Through the First Time Entrepreneur program, CBDC InRich provided the loan that enabled Christian to purchase his trailer and essential equipment. “It was a godsend,” he says. “The process was painless, and the support was incredible. The board – made up of local business owners - approved it unanimously. That meant a lot.”
Pizza, People, and Partnerships: Building Community Through Ascente
From the start, Ascente has thrived on word of mouth rather than flashy advertising. “About 95% of our customers are local,” Christian notes. “We’re right in a tourist area, but the locals sustain us - and that’s exactly what we hoped for.” Social media posts highlighting the day’s ingredients and their origins help spread the word, but it’s the community connections that truly fuel the business.
Christian has countless stories of neighbours and farmers contributing to the venture. He proudly buys garlic from a nearby grower who donates her proceeds to orphanages overseas. Other restaurateurs in the area have offered advice and support rather than competition. “I feel like I’ve met more people in the past year than I ever would have otherwise,” he says.
One of his proudest memories so far came from a much younger customer: “This little boy could barely see over the counter, sauce dripping down his face, and he looked up and just said, ‘Your pizza is delicious.’ That’s what it’s all about.”
Beyond The Trailer: A Long-Term Vision
Though only in its first year, Pizzeria Ascente already has an ambitious vision for the future. Christian aims to build a greenhouse on his property to grow herbs and eventually San Marzano tomatoes for his sauces. He dreams of an on-site farm stand where local farmers could sell their produce on the honour system.
“I always saw this as more than a pizzeria,” he explains. “It’s about drawing attention to local food systems and connecting people with good, honest food. Pizza just happens to be the perfect vehicle for that.”
As Ascente continues to evolve, it remains deeply rooted in its guiding philosophy: food made with care, sourced with integrity, and shared with community. For Christian, it’s more than a business - it’s a way to honour his heritage, nurture local agriculture, and create lasting connections in Cape Breton, one slice at a time.